Belfast to Copenhagen

Reborn as a cool, modern city, Belfast has successfully left its troubles behind, emerging as a hotbed of culture and architecture, where the comfort of a cosy pub is never far away. Take a voyage of discovery in its maritime quarter, home to a celebrated museum dedicated to the most famous ship ever built, which was constructed right here in the city’s shipyards. A walk across the Lagan Weir Footbridge brings you to Belfast’s fascinating Titanic District – an area of the city devoted to its rich ship-building heritage. The state-of-the-art Titanic Museum brings the story of the doomed vessel to life, and is the largest museum dedicated to the infamously ‘unsinkable’ ship. Wind up a nautical-themed ramble along the Maritime Mile with a visit to SS Nomadic, the smaller cousin of the Titanic, and a ship which serves as a fascinating time capsule back to the pomp and grandeur of the Titanic, while also telling its own stories of service in both World Wars. There’s just enough time to give the 10-metre long Salmon of Knowledge sculpture a quick peck for luck, before continuing to explore. A stark barbed wire and graffitied sheet metal barrier marks an abrupt scar through the city’s residential areas. The Peace Line was constructed during the height of the Troubles, when Belfast was plagued by sectarian divisions between Protestants and Catholics. Nowadays, you can jump in a black taxi tour to see the colourful murals and living history of the walls, which stand as a stark reminder of the fragility of peace. After exploring the city’s historic divisions, a reminder of Belfast’s uniting creativity can be found at the Metropolitan Arts Centre – a seven-storey tall building, which invites light to gloriously cascade inside. The Cathedral Quarter is a cobbled blend of flower-adorned pubs, restaurants and theatres, and venues where music spills out onto the streets at night, and many a pint is cheerily shared.

Derry, also known as Londonderry, is a city on the River Foyle in Northern Ireland. It’s known for the intact 17th-century Derry’s Walls with 7 gates. Within the walls, spired St. Columb’s Cathedral displays artefacts from the 1688–9 Siege of Derry. Near the Peace Bridge, the Tower Museum has city views and historical exhibits. Huge stained-glass windows adorn the neo-Gothic red sandstone Guildhall.

The Hebrides, or Western Isles, are a group of more than 500 islands off Scotland’s west coast in the Atlantic Ocean of which about one hundred are inhabited. They are divided into the Inner and Outer Hebrides. The Inner Hebrides are comprised of Skye, Mull, Islay, and Jura. The Outer Hebrides include Lewis and Harris, North and South Uist, Benbecula, Barra, Saint Kilda, and the Flannan Islands. The archipelago covers an area of 4,500 square miles (7,200 sq km). Most of its islands are covered by sparse vegetation and boast a fairly mild climate. Tourism, sheep and cattle raising, and the manufacture of textiles are the principal sources of income. The most famous export item is no doubt the excellent Harris tweed.

Scattered just off the northern tip of Scotland, Kirkwall is the capital of the Orkney Islands – a scenic archipelago of fascinating, dual heritage. The Viking influence is deep, while a prehistoric past and World War history adds to the endless stories that these dramatic islands have to tell. Sparse and beautiful, let the sweeping seascapes of frothing waves, and dance of the northern lights, enchant you as you explore. Windswept beaches are inhabited by whooping swans, while grassy cliffs hide puffins amid their wavy embrace. View less Sea caves and crumbling castles – and the dramatic meeting of the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean add to the romantic beauty of these lands, which may be physically close to the UK, but feel an entire world away. The sandstone St. Magnus Cathedral is the centrepiece of Orkney’s main town – a place of winding lanes and atmospheric walks – and Britain’s northernmost cathedral is a masterpiece that took 300 years to complete. Started in 1137, the beautiful cathedral is adorned with mesmerising stain-glass windows and has been evocatively named as the Light of the North. Look down over the ruined Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces nearby from the tip of the cathedral’s tower. Or, test out the islands’ history-rich distilleries, which produce smokey single malts – said to be the best in the world. You can also venture out to Europe’s best-preserved Stone Age Village, at the extraordinary World Heritage Site of Skara Brae, which offers an unparalleled vision into prehistoric life.

A colourful, historic capital of Norway, Trondheim’s history reaches back to 997 AD, when it was founded by Viking King Olav Tryggvason. It may be Norway’s third-biggest city, but there’s a welcoming and intimate feel here, with a photogenic waterfront, and glowing wooden warehouses adding old-time charm. The history runs deep, but nowadays Trondheim is also a leading technology centre, and home to 30,000 students, who inject youth and vitality into the city’s streets. View less

Museums dedicated to Norway’s musical heritage will strike a sweet chord, while the endless wilds of central Norway and the Trondheim Fjord unveil themselves close by. A destructive fire laid to rest to old Trondheim’s narrow wooden alleyways, but a flavour of the old city survives in the Bakklandet neighbourhood. Traditional timber houses and colourful wharves line up along the waterfront, painting a pretty picture with pistachio-green and turmeric-yellow licks of paint. Vibrating cyclists rattle along the cobbled old streets, while flowers spill down from window ledges in this quaint, but lively area of cafes, restaurants and curiosity shops. Head to the Old Town bridge – Gamle Bybro – to enjoy the colourful lines of houses on both sides of the river, on your way to the gothic Nidaros Cathedral, which towers above the city, with its pointed, emerald-green spire punctuating the sky. The most northerly Gothic cathedral in Europe, aim to visit during one of the organ performances that rattle the beautiful stain-glass windows. Built on the burial site of King Olaf, in 1070, you can test your knees by taking on the narrow ascent of the tower, where glorious views of Trondheim await. Take in the beauty of the city with a trundling tour aboard the most northerly tram in the world – Gråkallbanen.

Åndalsnes is located at the mouth of the river Rauma, at the shores of the Romsdalsfjord, one of the fjords protected as a UNESCO world heritage site. Famous in the 19th century for salmon fishing, the Rauma flows through the Romsdalen Valley widely considered some of the most breathtaking scenery in all of Norway. Although the river’s salmon stocks are now being replenished, today Andalsnes is better known as a centre of excellenece for Norwegian alpine sports. Mountaineering, climbing, hiking and even base jumping are all readably accessible. A newly opened Norwegian Mountaineering centre boasts Norway’s highest indoor climbing wall. Some 15 kms out of Andalsnes is the Trollstigen (Troll Road), a mountain road that climbs the pass between the Isterdalen and Valldal valley. It’s one of Norway’s major attractions due to the steep inclines and eleven hairpin bends, only open in the summer months. Equally exciting is a three hour round rail trip from Andalsnes to Dombas on the Rauma Railway line. A feast for the eyes from the comfort of a carriage, mountains, valleys and waterfalls come into sight, as the route follows the Rauma river. Trains thoughtfully slow down at the most photogenic spots. A feat of civil engineering the track passes over countless bridges and through tunnels, the train even performs a 180 degree turn underground. Easily missed, look out at the train station in Andalsnes for a chapel converted from an old red “Intercity Special” railway carriage. The only train chapel in Norway and perhaps the world!

Decorative turrets, pastel-coloured paint and elegant buildings reflect in the glass-smooth harbour waters of Ålesund, welcoming you to one of the world’s finest havens of Art Nouveau architecture. A perfect complement of natural and man-made beauty, the city’s distinctive jugendstil style is enhanced by a thrilling location amid colossal fjord scenery. Geirangerfjord World Heritage Site of is one of Norway’s most spectacular fjords, and it comes alive in summer with gushing meltwater falls plummeting from steep banks to pristine water below. View less Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful towns in Norway, practically every building in Ålesund boasts fantastical flourishes and eccentric quirks. Rebuilt from the ashes of the devastating fire that swept through in 1904, the town is now a unique historic treasure trove. Wander fairy-tale cobbled streets, and admire endless dainty turrets and decorative swirls, before reaching the Aksla Viewpoint and letting the true majesty of the town’s dreamlike setting wash over you, while gazing over its archipelago. Enjoy a sugar-kick with a bite of folded svele – an indulgent, buttery Norwegian pancake – or settle in to a cosy restaurant for something a little more substantial. Ålesundis a town built on sea trade, and a regular haul of fjord cod is brought ashore before being distributed right across the world. Dried, salted cod – known as klipfish – is a particular speciality, with Ålesund producing an incredible two thirds of the world’s supply.

The village of Olden clings to the banks of the Nordfjord, surrounded by steep mountains and lovely valleys. Boating on the fjord, hiking on nearby scenic mountain trails, as well as salmon and sea-trout fishing in the River Olden combine to make this small town an enjoyable holiday destination. The summer season brings visitors to the area who are interested in glacier skiing on the Briksdal Glacier and the Jostedal Glacier, Europe’s biggest. Enthusiasts enjoy not only challenging skiing but the ride up to the glacier aboard local horse drawn carriages. These powerful, yet compact, miniature horses are accustomed to climbing up this mountainous terrain. Most of us would consider it a bit too enthusiastic actually swim in the waters found pooled atop these slopes. These chilling pools are a bit more “refreshing” than most of us would like, for they feature tiny icebergs that float along past those brave enough to actually swim here. The scenery along the fjord is varied, featuring well-kept farms and verdant orchards which stand in stark contrast to the startling whiteness of the glaciers and the gray rock faces of towering mountains. The adjacent lake provides summertime watersports for Norwegians and visitors alike. Olden was, for many years, home to American landscape artist William H. Singer, scion of a Pittsburgh steel family. A philanthropist, Singer underwrote such endeavors as the construction of a much-needed road and the very important regional hospital.

The crooked, pastel-coloured warehouses of Bergen’s World Heritage waterfront lean together charmingly, welcoming visitors to this city at the heart of Norway’s most extraordinary cinematic landscapes. It may be the country’s second largest city, but the villagey feel here always provides a warm welcome – even when the weather is living up to its famously damp reputation. Bergen’s colourful waterfront, Bryggen, is a ramshackle line-up of incredible Hanseatic warehouses, built following the devastating fire of 1702, which ransacked the city. These iconic warehouses have stood proudly ever since, with Bergen growing and expanding around the colourful facades. Behind them, a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and wooden decking waits, alive with artisan craft shops and bustling galleries. Fløyen mountain watches over the city, and you can take a short but steep hike up to the panoramic viewpoints, or jump on the funicular, which trundles visitors up and down the incline. At the top, spectacular views of Bergen jutting out into the dark seas below unfold before your eyes. Wait until evening to see the sunset painting glorious golden light across the city and waves, and Bergen’s lights flickering into life. Nærøyfjorden, a deeply etched fjord nearby, is perhaps Norway’s most photographed and iconic piece of scenery. A cruise through the base of this spectacular narrow fjord, parting the glass-smooth inky waters, is an utterly humbling experience, as the claustrophobically-close slopes rise imposingly over you. Sognefjord also stretches out nearby, and is Norway’s longest fjord, adorned with plunging waterfalls and vibrant farms during summer.

Located on the west coast of southern Norway and, with a population of 100,000 the country’s fourth largest city, Stavanger is something of a survivor. While other Norwegian coastal towns have experienced serious decline because of the precarious fortunes of fishing, Stavanger has over the years grown into one of the country’s most dynamic economic power bases, thanks to the creation of a merchant fleet, fish canning, shipbuilding and, more recently, the oil industry. With more than 3,000 foreign oil business people residing here who have made English virtually the first language, Stavanger is often referred to as the “Oil Capital of Norway.” To support the offshore oilfields, the port serves refineries and is also involved in the construction of oil rigs. Today’s Stavanger is a charming blend of fishing village and modern city, sprinkled with parks, gardens and lakes. The elegant old town with its 12th century cathedral deserves a closer look, and the Canning and Maritime Museums are well worth a visit. Along the length of the harbor, on Torget, is a small daily market with colorful stands of flowers, fruit and vegetables. Teeming water tanks on the quayside hold a variety of fresh fish. The area around the eastern side of the harbor makes up the town’s shopping district, a bright mix of spidery lanes, pedestrian streets and white-timbered houses that occupy the site of the original settlement of medieval Stavanger. Outside of town, one can take a trip to the top of Pulpit Rock and other fine lookout points to enjoy the magnificent view. In addition, a worthwhile trip can be made to Utstein Kloster, which was founded in the 13th century and is Norway’s oldest and best preserved abbey.

Located halfway up the long Norwegian coast, Kristiansund is spread out across a swathe of rocky islands with its main cove centered on Nordlandet, Gomalandet/Kirklandet and Innlandet, all linked together by bridges. Founded in 1742 as a trading port, Krustiansund retains an old town area around the harbor where a customs house, warehouses, merchants’ dwellings and various museums recall the trades that ensured Kristiansund’s prosperity.

The capital of Norway since 1299, Oslo is the nation’s largest city. Located on an island-studded fjord, with its forest-clad hills and lakes in the hinterland, Oslo provides recreational opportunities that few capital cities can match. According to historians, the city was founded in 1050 by Harold III. In later years, Hakon V declared Oslo the capital of Norway and built Akershus Castle. As the country’s capital, Oslo is the royal residence, seat of government, Supreme Court, and also the site of Norway’s oldest university. Through its 950-year history, the city suffered many fires, including an especially devastating one in 1624. As a result, Oslo presents a mixture of several architectural styles. Visitors will find a full range of activities among the numerous galleries, museums, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters. With a fairly compact city center, many of Oslo’s attractions can be reached on foot; ferryboats departing from the harbor can easily reach the Bygdøy peninsula.

Effortlessly cool and down to earth, Copenhagen is a contemporary, clean and classy highlight of Scandinavia. A city built to be liveable, Copenhagen has refused to compromise, resulting in a forward-thinking metropolis that’s green and clean. Swim in the waters of Havnebadet Islands during summer, or shelter from winter’s bite by snuggling in beside a roaring open fire during winter. You can even hop on a train to Sweden, traversing the famous span of a Nordic Noir star – the Öresund Bridge. It takes just a touch over half an hour to step off the train in Malmö. There’s only one way to truly explore Copenhagen and that’s on two wheels. Easy bike hire schemes will get you moving across this flat city, designed with bikes at the forefront of the mind. Choose a model with electronic assistance to take the strain out of any journey, giving you the freedom to whizz around and explore the modern angular architecture of the centre, and the pastoral colours of Nyhavn waterfront. Head out to the Little Mermaid statue, inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale – the strikingly-restrained statue is the perfect landmark for Copenhagen; unshowy, self-assured and utterly irresistible. The Danish concept of hygge is very much alive here, and you’ll feel that warm cosy feeling as you visit cafes illuminated by the warm glow of hanging filament bulbs, and stuffed to the brim with thick, dusty books. Home to mega-brewer Carlsberg, Copenhagen is also a city for hop enthusiasts, and there is a thriving craft brewing scene to sample. Danish Smørrebrød sandwiches are a must try, or for something a little more substantial, settle in for a culinary voyage and try a taster menu – the city’s restaurants are littered with Michelin stars.