Grand Voyage: Pole To Pole

In the early 20th century, Buenos Aires, Argentina, gained immense wealth when it began shipping its pampas-raised beef around the world. It quickly entered the club of great world cities, and a slew of attractions and architectural jewels soon arose. Since that time, the capital has experienced huge swings in economic and political fortune. But Buenos Aires continues to fascinate and entertain sightseeing visitors, both for its chaotic energy and for its sheer urban beauty. Thankfully, the Belle Époque grandeur and enormous tracts of greenery remain. Any list of things to do in Buenos Aires would begin with its many walkable neighborhoods; Palermo especially stands out, thanks to creative residents who have pushed the restaurant scene well beyond beef. Porteños—as the locals are called—may be of Spanish, Italian, Jewish or Middle Eastern descent; that mix of cultures is reflected in the city’s dialect, foods and pastimes. Looking beyond the city’s sights, Buenos Aires is known as the birthplace of tango, and while the music and dance never quite went away, today tango is making a resurgence. Fans come here from around the world to take part in or watch the milongas (dance events). Argentines are world leaders in polo as well, and as the sport captures the interest of more and more travelers, hunky players like Nacho are gaining global celebrity.

In the early 20th century, Buenos Aires, Argentina, gained immense wealth when it began shipping its pampas-raised beef around the world. It quickly entered the club of great world cities, and a slew of attractions and architectural jewels soon arose. Since that time, the capital has experienced huge swings in economic and political fortune. But Buenos Aires continues to fascinate and entertain sightseeing visitors, both for its chaotic energy and for its sheer urban beauty. Thankfully, the Belle Époque grandeur and enormous tracts of greenery remain. Any list of things to do in Buenos Aires would begin with its many walkable neighborhoods; Palermo especially stands out, thanks to creative residents who have pushed the restaurant scene well beyond beef. Porteños—as the locals are called—may be of Spanish, Italian, Jewish or Middle Eastern descent; that mix of cultures is reflected in the city’s dialect, foods and pastimes. Looking beyond the city’s sights, Buenos Aires is known as the birthplace of tango, and while the music and dance never quite went away, today tango is making a resurgence. Fans come here from around the world to take part in or watch the milongas (dance events). Argentines are world leaders in polo as well, and as the sport captures the interest of more and more travelers, hunky players like Nacho are gaining global celebrity.

Known as the St. Tropez of Uruguay for its miles of beautiful, pristine beaches, sports activities, shopping, and temperate climate, Punta del Este offers something for everyone. Choose a gentle bayside beach or dramatic Atlantic beach with perfect surfing waves; explore the colonial and modern architecture of downtown and shop for local treasures; and visit Casa del Pueblo – a modern art museum that was once the home of celebrated Uruguayan artist Carlos Paez Vilaro.

Some cities need no introduction, and even fewer cities live up to their reputation the way Rio de Janeiro does, in both the best sense—how visitors experience sheer exhilaration being there—and the harsh reality of its social and economic strains. Situated in arguably the world’s most dramatic urban setting, it has apartment complexes that hang on huge granite peaks which rise smack in the middle of the city, and adding to the drama, its stunning beaches seem to stretch forever. A quick course in Rio: Before arriving, listen to some bossa nova and samba music to get in the swing of things. Second lesson: Practice pronouncing Rio as Hio in order to sound like a native Carioca. After that, it’s all about stopping at corner juice bars to enjoy fresh tropical drinks named for fruit you’ve never even heard of, and indulging in people-watching along the legendary Copacabana and Ipanema boardwalks. For more insight into the city, you might take the plunge into Maracaña Stadium to watch a crazy match between crosstown rivals Flamengo and Fluminense (imagine the Yankees and the Red Sox living in the same city) or jump on a bike to discover some of Rio’s far-flung and vastly diverse districts.

Some cities need no introduction, and even fewer cities live up to their reputation the way Rio de Janeiro does, in both the best sense—how visitors experience sheer exhilaration being there—and the harsh reality of its social and economic strains. Situated in arguably the world’s most dramatic urban setting, it has apartment complexes that hang on huge granite peaks which rise smack in the middle of the city, and adding to the drama, its stunning beaches seem to stretch forever. A quick course in Rio: Before arriving, listen to some bossa nova and samba music to get in the swing of things. Second lesson: Practice pronouncing Rio as Hio in order to sound like a native Carioca. After that, it’s all about stopping at corner juice bars to enjoy fresh tropical drinks named for fruit you’ve never even heard of, and indulging in people-watching along the legendary Copacabana and Ipanema boardwalks. For more insight into the city, you might take the plunge into Maracaña Stadium to watch a crazy match between crosstown rivals Flamengo and Fluminense (imagine the Yankees and the Red Sox living in the same city) or jump on a bike to discover some of Rio’s far-flung and vastly diverse districts.

The spindly Brazilian peninsula of Armação dos Búzios, or just Búzios, is loaded with hills and fine bays as well as coves where long ago pirates were able to stash their booty and themselves. In the state of Rio de Janeiro, and about a two-hour drive from the city of Rio, the popular resort area is made up of a handful of hamlets spread over some 30 square miles and encompassing nearly two dozen beaches. Dotted with cacti and dry tropical woods, the peninsula was a slaving station before its economic roles morphed into that of fishing villages and a whaling base (an armação was a fish drying rack, while búzios means “whelks” in Portuguese).

The main town has a cool Mediterranean-on-the-Atlantic vibe that began when Brigitte Bardot famously showed up in the mid-’60s and launched its fame—the port promenade is named for the actress and a bronze statue honors her. The half-mile-long pedestrian-only Rua das Pedras, or Stone Street, is a tropical Fifth Avenue or Champs-Élysées, packed with shopping, dining and nightlife, and it’s the place to see and be seen by the whole world.

Portugal’s former New World colonial capital is storybook Brazil—a city both cinematic and gritty, its colorful cobblestoned streets lined with astonishing gilded churches and photogenic architecture dancing to its own Afro-Brazilian drum. It is a microcosm of Brazil: a kaleidoscopic mélange of African roots and culture, European tradition and indigenous pedigree, with a vivacious soul that bewitches visitors right away. Under Portuguese royal orders to establish a capital in Brazil, Tomé de Souza landed in Salvador in 1549 with 400 soldiers and 400 settlers in tow. By the late 1500s, the city was the most important in the Portuguese empire after Lisbon. Its complicated history continues to shape the city today, and nowhere is it more palpable than the UNESCO World Heritage–listed Pelourinho, the old town. Here endures a sensory kaleidoscope: colorful colonial buildings and jaw-dropping churches, a percussion-heavy local soundtrack of unique musical styles such as afoxê and samba reggae, capoeira circles that seem to break out spontaneously in the open-air plazas, and the scent of acarajé (bean and shrimp fritters) filling the air. It all merges—sights, sounds, smells and the ever-present sensation of heat—in Salvador’s bewitching personality.

Maceió is the capital city of the state of Alagoas, on the east coast of Brazil. Its historic center is home to pastel-colored colonial houses, a 19th-century cathedral and the Théo Brandão Museum of Anthropology and Folklore, located in a renovated seafront mansion.

With Recife’s receding tide comes a most unusual bathing beach, dotted with a myriad of inviting pools and a surreal seascape of reef rocks. Hence the name Recife, which means reef. Discover nearby Olinda, a colonial gem beautifully preserved in pastel shades of stucco

Jangadeiros (fishermen aboard log rafts with triangular sails) skim this port’s green waters as they have for centuries; in the city, artisans hand-craft gossamer pieces of heirloom lace. Sample shore excursion: Highlights of Fortaleza.

A lively trading center on the Amazon (Henry Ford invested millions in rubber here in the 1920s). Here, see rubber and Brazil nut trees; learn how the locals make tapioca, staple of the Amazon; swim in the clear blue waters of the Rio Tapajos. Sample shore excursion: City Tour of Santarém; Tapajos National Forest.

Surrounded by the Amazonian rain forest, Boca da Valeria, a small Brazilian settlement of fewer than 100 people, boasts no tourism infrastructure. Yet the destination lures travelers by offering an authentic glimpse of the simple river life that the Amerindians have followed for centuries. Meaning “Mouth of the Valeria River,” the remote fishing and trading village sits at the convergence of the Amazon and the Rio da Valeria. The local children guide visitors along a dirt footpath and pose for pictures in their native costumes, often with exotic animals in tow. Boca da Valeria, which is located between the towns of Parintins and Santarém, stands in stark contrast to nearby urban centers such as Manaus, where residents live with all the comforts, and complications, of contemporary life—but therein lies the appeal to the world adventurer.

If ever a city were a model for boom and bust, it would be Manaus, which lies at the confluence of Brazil’s Amazon River and Rio Negro, more than 1,450 kilometers (900 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean. Like in America’s Old West, great fortunes were amassed in no time here and vanished just as quickly during the boom years of rubber production in the late 19th century. The most enduring memorial of that time is the great opera house and theater that are still in use today, and whose existence in the Amazon helped inspire the 1982 movie Fitzcarraldo, about one man’s maniacal obsession with bringing opera to the jungle. These days, Manaus is downright huge—perhaps surprisingly, it’s Brazil’s seventh-largest city. A swank new soccer stadium was added for the 2014 World Cup, and a three-kilometer-long (two-mile-long), cable-stayed bridge opened in 2011 across the Rio Negro. The Ponta Negra suburb has modern high-rises, buzzing restaurants and beaches that rival those of any town on the sea. But within minutes, visitors can find themselves in the watery jungle, the source of the Amazonian specialties like pirarucu fish and acai berries on the menus of Manaus’s restaurants.

If ever a city were a model for boom and bust, it would be Manaus, which lies at the confluence of Brazil’s Amazon River and Rio Negro, more than 1,450 kilometers (900 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean. Like in America’s Old West, great fortunes were amassed in no time here and vanished just as quickly during the boom years of rubber production in the late 19th century. The most enduring memorial of that time is the great opera house and theater that are still in use today, and whose existence in the Amazon helped inspire the 1982 movie Fitzcarraldo, about one man’s maniacal obsession with bringing opera to the jungle. These days, Manaus is downright huge—perhaps surprisingly, it’s Brazil’s seventh-largest city. A swank new soccer stadium was added for the 2014 World Cup, and a three-kilometer-long (two-mile-long), cable-stayed bridge opened in 2011 across the Rio Negro. The Ponta Negra suburb has modern high-rises, buzzing restaurants and beaches that rival those of any town on the sea. But within minutes, visitors can find themselves in the watery jungle, the source of the Amazonian specialties like pirarucu fish and acai berries on the menus of Manaus’s restaurants.

Steeped in tradition, Parintins celebrates its centuries-old Indian culture each June at the Boi-Bumba Festival, a lavish event that rivals Rio’s Carnivale, re-enacted for visitors at a local club. Sample shore excursions: Parintins by Tricycle; Boi-Bumba Festival Show.

Not for nothing is Alter do Chão known as the Caribbean of the Amazon. Taken as a whole, the village’s white powdery beaches, transparent blue-green waters and hang-loose vibe would make a perfectly convincing addition to the Lesser Antilles. Of course, there are tip-offs that you’re still in the midst of South America’s River Sea, not least the neighboring rain forest and the pink dolphins—those local mascots—that periodically surface in the water. This uncommon tropical charm lies at the heart of Alter do Chão’s appeal—but the place becomes outright irresistible when you factor in the curiously cosmopolitan inhabitants (expat hippies, herbalists and nature lovers in addition to Brazilians) and the cute little shops, cafés and businesses they’ve created. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more relaxing or beautiful stop in which to enjoy a drink by the water (or even sometimes in the water, seated in a slightly submerged chair—a local tradition) before doing a little exploring by boat or on foot.

Devil’s Island, part of a three-island chain called Îles du Salut, in French Guiana, was home to one of the most infamous—and impregnable—prisons of the 19th and 20th centuries. Opened in 1852, it received worldwide renown in the mid-1890s when French military captain Alfred Dreyfus was sentenced to life imprisonment after being wrongly convicted of selling military secrets to Germany. Although Dreyfus’s sentence was commuted after five years, more than 80,000 political prisoners and hardened criminals endured years of mistreatment and abuse among disease-ridden conditions. Few were able to escape, though Henri Charrière, author of the book Papillon, allegedly succeeded by filling sacks with coconuts in order to float to the mainland. The prison was officially closed in 1953. In 1965, the French government transferred responsibility of the island to the Guiana Space Centre, and in recent years, tourism facilities have been added. Devil’s Island and its two smaller neighboring islands receive more than 50,000 visitors each year.

Nearly 400 miles off the coast of Africa, lies a handful of islands known as Cape Verde. The islands of Cape Verde range from steep and rocky, to flat and sandy. Enjoy harbor-side bars and shops of Mindelo. Although traces of the Portuguese culture are woven throughout, Mindelo’s unique atmosphere is all its own

Praia da Rocha is a beach and built up area on the Atlantic Ocean in the southern section of the concelho of Portimão, Algarve, southern Portugal. Nearby Praia dos Três Castelos beach is well known for the bizarre and dramatic limestone rock formations that stand along the water.

The Gambia is defined by a river, the one that gives the nation its name. The long, narrow country stretches from the Atlantic into Africa for some 475 kilometers (295 miles), and consists of the Gambia River and its banks—spanning only 48 kilometers (30 miles) at its widest point. This smallest country on the African mainland is also home to the continent’s smallest capital, Banjul, with fewer than 35,000 residents. Sitting on an island where the river enters the ocean, Banjul is decidedly laid-back, without the bustling city center—or traffic jams—of Africa’s larger metropolises.The Gambia also has the distinction of having enjoyed a relatively stable government since independence. That, combined with a warm tropical climate and miles of beautiful beaches along its Atlantic coastline, has attracted a thriving expat community. For most visitors to Banjul, the nearby beaches and quiet pace of life here are its main draws. Among the popular sights are The Gambia National Museum, which recounts the history of the country as well as daily life for the nation’s residents, and the Abuko Nature Reserve, the country’s first national park, which provides an excellent introduction to Africa’s flora and fauna.

Alluring and frenetic, Senegal’s capital, Dakar, was long a tiny settlement on the southern part of the Cape Verde peninsula. It now encompasses former colonial towns (it was once a French commune) and a handful of other villages. The hub is the Place de l’Indépendance, a buzzing square lined with both concrete-block and colonial buildings and from which streets with restaurants, shops and theaters radiate. Roads are often congested with buses, taxis and horse-drawn carriages, and the Medina quarter, home to the Grand Mosque and markets, is an explosion of color and commotion. The food scene has a lot of flavor, too, with influences from Senegal’s many ethnic groups, European past, and a large Lebanese expat community. Alongside trendy restaurants, you’ll find beachside night markets and traditional spots serving thieboudienne (seasoned fish served with rice and vegetables). Music makes up much of the pulse of Dakar—you’ll hear the drumbeats of the local mbalax music emanating from the city’s dance clubs—but there are more serene parts of Dakar, too. The streets of Île de Gorée, once a depot for the slave trade, can be hauntingly quiet, and an hour away, the pink-tinted Lake Retba offers a respite from Dakar’s never-ending sights and sounds.

Rugged, volcanic Lanzarote—the northeasternmost island of the Canary Islands, which are part of Spain yet lie less than 200 kilometers off the coast of Morocco—is small enough that you can travel its whole length in less than an hour. Driving between the small towns on the island, dotted with some 300 volcanic cones, visitors pass wineries around La Geria valley; its vast estates are covered by odd little lava stone pits designed to protect individual vines from the wind. (Viticulture has a long history here—El Grifo winery was founded in 1775.) All over the island, the works of celebrated local sculptor, painter and architect César Manrique can be seen in the most unexpected places. A former fishing village, the port of Arrecife (meaning “reef” in Spanish and named after the offshore reefs that long provided protection from pirates) is now a medium-sized city. Despite its location in the Atlantic, Arrecife has a decidedly Mediterranean feel with seafront promenades lined with palms. El Charco tidal lagoon is a popular venue for strolling and photographing traditional fishing boats at anchor. On Saturdays, a food and crafts market pops up around the lagoon and the Church of San Ginés; every day of the week, small tapas bars are always welcoming.

Regardless of when you visit Agadir, on Morocco’s Atlantic Coast, your chances of arriving on a sunny day are pretty high. That selling point has made it a popular seaside resort for Europeans, who stroll along the promenade and surf, wet bike and ride camels on the seemingly endless crescent-shaped beach. Here, you can sip a cup of Berber tea at a café, grab a pint at a pub or dine and dance at one of the beach clubs. Beyond the beach, much of the area’s history has been erased, and all that can be seen today are modern whitewashed buildings and palm-lined boulevards. (Though it was the site of an ancient Roman port and occupied by both the French and the Portuguese, Agadir was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1960 and little of its past survived.) You can still explore the region’s heritage at the Amazigh Museum, which provides an introduction to Berber culture, and the hilltop casbah, built in the 16th century. Don’t miss the souks, with local products like saffron, olive oil, dates and Berber handicrafts, including silver jewelry, handmade slippers, carpets and pottery. Outside Agadir, red-walled towns and valleys with limestone canyons and waterfalls await.

Casablanca is Morocco’s largest city and its most important port. While Rabat is the country’s official capital, Casablanca is its economic and cultural hub, the place where Moroccans go to make it big. There has been a settlement here since before the Romans, and although the Barbary pirates and Portuguese also left their marks, it wasn’t until the French colonial period that Casablanca truly came into its own. The modern city was the first in the world to be laid out by aerial survey, and was barely 20 years old when its name was framed forever in the Hollywood classic of the same name. But Casablanca isn’t just a place for movie nostalgia—its tremendous Hassan II Mosque puts Moroccan tradition on a distinctly modern trajectory, while its trams whisk you past Art Deco architecture to Dubai-inspired malls and city beaches. Casablanca’s central location on the Atlantic coast also means that day trips to the historic imperial cities of Marrakech and Rabat are an easy option. We suggest you gulp down a shot of Moroccan espresso at a street café and dive right in.

This strategic link between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean has been ruled by the Spanish, British and Moors. As long as the Barbary Apes remain, the British will rule Gibraltar this is the tradition that has held for 350 years. These pesky primates are a favorite with visitors despite their incessant chatter and light-fingered ways. Ride to the top of the Rock for great views over the Strait of Gibraltar-on a clear day you’ll see Africa.

On the northeast coast of Spain, overlooking the Mediterranean, Barcelona is a vibrant port city, packed with centuries of iconic art and architecture—Gaudí and Picasso both called it home—and lined with sunny white-sand beaches. Explore the Catalan capital’s tourist attractions and historic neighborhoods, Modernisme and world-renowned art museums, galleries and local crafts shops—some of which are centuries old and stock traditional Catalan wares. After you see the sights, there are lively tapas bars around every corner where you can stop for a drink, a café amb llet (Catalan for espresso with steamed milk) or a snack, no matter the hour. Green spaces for picnics, long walks and respite from the hustle and bustle are scattered throughout Barcelona’s attractions: There’s Gaudí’s mosaic-decorated park, a neoclassical maze at the Laberint d’Horta, as well as plenty of high places (mountains, monuments and edifices) where sightseeing visitors can take in the view. A short trip from Barcelona by car or train, luxury outlets, cava wineries, a mountaintop abbey and the sandy beaches of the Mediterranean coast await.

On the northeast coast of Spain, overlooking the Mediterranean, Barcelona is a vibrant port city, packed with centuries of iconic art and architecture—Gaudí and Picasso both called it home—and lined with sunny white-sand beaches. Explore the Catalan capital’s tourist attractions and historic neighborhoods, Modernisme and world-renowned art museums, galleries and local crafts shops—some of which are centuries old and stock traditional Catalan wares. After you see the sights, there are lively tapas bars around every corner where you can stop for a drink, a café amb llet (Catalan for espresso with steamed milk) or a snack, no matter the hour. Green spaces for picnics, long walks and respite from the hustle and bustle are scattered throughout Barcelona’s attractions: There’s Gaudí’s mosaic-decorated park, a neoclassical maze at the Laberint d’Horta, as well as plenty of high places (mountains, monuments and edifices) where sightseeing visitors can take in the view. A short trip from Barcelona by car or train, luxury outlets, cava wineries, a mountaintop abbey and the sandy beaches of the Mediterranean coast await.

Hanging off the southwestern edge of Spain, Cádiz is one of Andalucía’s regional capitals and a place bursting with personality. Europe’s oldest continually inhabited city, with a history stretching back 3,000 years, has fallen on hard times in recent years, but a combination of pride, good humor and stoicism keeps it on an even keel. The famous Carnival, one of Spain’s most important in the genre, is a thrilling fiesta into which Cádiz pours all its energy and ingenuity. The city’s fond nickname, la tacita de plata (“little silver cup”), alludes to its curious geography—it juts out on a long peninsula into a sheltered bay. Old town Cádiz is a warren of cobbled streets where the houses, painted white or dusty ochre, have the weather-beaten look of a place subjected to centuries of wind and salt. This ancient city has one good example of everything that matters: a great food market, a theater (the Teatro Falla, a grand Art Nouveau Moorish gem), a gorgeous cathedral, impressive fortifications and a beach—the picturesque and famous La Caleta.

Find your way in the city that launched the Age of Discovery. Cross the River Tagus on its soaring suspension bridge, watched over by a colossal statue of Christ. Wander the maze of streets in the Alfama, the old Moorish quarter, dominated by the medieval Castle of St George where peacocks strut and shriek. Stroll the Baixa and refuse to leave without a pair of elegant shoes.

Find your way in the city that launched the Age of Discovery. Cross the River Tagus on its soaring suspension bridge, watched over by a colossal statue of Christ. Wander the maze of streets in the Alfama, the old Moorish quarter, dominated by the medieval Castle of St George where peacocks strut and shriek. Stroll the Baixa and refuse to leave without a pair of elegant shoes.

From lovely Oporto enjoy a leisurely drive along the Rio d’Ouro (River of Gold) into port wine country. Hear the fascinating story of its origin; taste test the season’s best.

Sitting by a natural harbor at the mouth of the Penfeld River in western Brittany, the city of Brest has a rich maritime history that stretches from the Middle Ages to today, as it is home to the main French naval base in the Atlantic. Brest’s strategic importance was first established in the 1600s, when Cardinal Richelieu created a naval base and arsenal here. Throughout the Napoleonic Wars, warships were produced in its dockyards. During World War I, Americans maintained a naval air station in Brest, then Germany took control of the city during World War II and stationed U-boat submarines in its harbor. Though much of the city was destroyed in 1944 after an Allied invasion, one of Brest’s most important sites escaped the bombing: the Château de Brest, a 13th-century castle that’s the oldest structure in town. Just across the Penfeld River stands the 14th-century tower Tour Tanguy; inside is a museum that showcases the history of the city prior to World War II, with dioramas, photographs, postcards and other objects.

In the 20th century, Cherbourg’s biggest claim to fame was perhaps that it had been a vital port during the Allied forces’ D-Day invasion, which landed to the southeast and traveled overland to capture the well-defended city from the Germans. However, in recent years, Cherbourg has undergone a revitalization that makes it a great place to sample local delicacies in the Place de Gaulle Market and calvados (apple brandy) from nearby orchards, plus visit the historic sites in and near town. Can’t-miss attractions include the wonderful Cité de la Mer maritime museum, as well as the Roule Fort where the Americans ousted the Germans, now home to the Museum of the Liberation. Cherbourg is also a perfect jumping off point for exploring the sights of Normandy, like the D-Day landing locations on Utah and Omaha Beaches, the historic town of Bayeux—the base of William the Conqueror before he invaded England—and the stunning scenery and sea cliffs of the Cape of La Hague.

From this busy port city tour to canal-laced Brugge; Brussels, home of the European Union; and Ghent, mecca for chocolate lovers. Sample shore excursion: Antwerp, City of Diamonds.

A stop in Amsterdam offers the chance to explore the sights of one of Europe’s most colorful, dynamic and historic cities—one with a well-earned reputation as a laid-back and inviting place for people of all stripes. Visitors are naturally drawn to the historic city center where you’ll find some of the world’s top art museums, including the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum. And at Dam Square, the Amsterdam’s largest public square, you can tour the Royal Palace before continuing to the tourist attractions on the Canal Belt. The iconic network of waterways that surrounds the downtown area offers a picturesque backdrop for sightseeing by bike or canal boat. Be sure to visit the floating Bloemenmarkt to peruse famed Dutch tulips, and take time to wander and window-shop among the narrow lanes of de Jordaan. And you won’t have to look far in Amsterdam to find delicious Dutch treats along the way. Just duck into a cozy brown café to sample a plate of bitterballen with mustard and a beer, and grab a gooey sweet stroopwafel from a street vendor as you stroll.