Papeete (Tahiti) to Papeete (Tahiti)

Formed by two ancient volcanoes and joined at the isthmus of Taravao, Tahiti is the largest island of the Society Archipelago and the economic heart of French Polynesia. Ever since the famous French impressionist painter Paul Gauguin immortalized Tahitian maidens in vibrant colors on his canvasses, Tahiti has had a mysterious allure and still summons up all the romance of the South Pacific as a tropical paradise. Rising in the center, Mount Orohena and Mount Aorai are the highest points; deep valleys radiate in all directions from these central peaks. Steep slopes drop abruptly from the high plateaus to coastal plains. The northeast coast is rugged and rocky without a barrier reef, and thus exposed to intense, pounding surf. Villages lie on a narrow strip between mountains and ocean. The south coast is broad and gentle with large gardens and coconut groves; a barrier reef shields it from the sea.

If you have ever dreamt up your ideal island holiday, we suspect it goes something like this: Soapy blue seas? Check. Sparkling white beaches? Check. Thatched wooden huts, gently sloping palm trees and kaleidoscopic marine life? Check, check and check. And yet, even by ticking every box, first time viewing of Bora Bora still beggars belief. This tropical hideaway less than 12 m2 in the heart of the South Pacific has been toping travel wish lists for years. Long considered the realm of honeymooners – spectacularly romantic sunsets are a speciality – Bora Bora is not just for wandering with your love. If the prismatic shades of blue of the world’s most beautiful lagoon do not fill you up, then perhaps underwater scooters and aqua Safaris will charge your batteries. If exploring Bora Bora’s lush hinterland is more your glass of tequila sunrise, then trips around the island (often stopping off at the celebrity haunt Bloody Mary Restaurant & Bar) are a must. Bora Bora’s peaceful ambience has not always been the case. The island was a US supply base, known as “Operation Bobcat” during WWII. During this time, Bora Bora was home to nine ships, 20,000 tons of equipment and nearly 7,000 men. Eight massive 7-inch naval cannons were installed around the island, all but one of which is still in place. Although little is known of the history of the island, it is known that Bora Bora was called Vava’u in ancient times. This supports belief that the island was colonised by Tongans prior to French annex in 1888.

The largest of the Leeward Islands, Raiatea is totally surrounded by a reef but has several navigable passes and the only navigable river in French Polynesia. Raiatea shares a protected lagoon with the island of Taha’a; legends tell how the two islands were cut apart by a mythical eel. Although it has no beaches, there are picture-postcard motus (flat reef islets) with nice beaches in the lagoon. One of the nicest things about Raiatea is that it remains “undiscovered” by most visitors to French Polynesia. Before European encroachment, Raiatea was the religious, cultural and political center of Tahiti-Polynesia. It was also Captain Cook’s favorite island. The last resistance to the French takeover on the island lasted until 1897, when French troops and warships used arms to conquer the island. The native leader of the resistance, Teraupoo, was deported to New Caledonia. Raiatea is an archaeologist’s delight. Scientists have unearthed artifacts linking the island with Hawaii. Local tradition says Raiatea was the great jumping-off point for ancient Polynesian mariners. There are a significant number of marae (Tahitian temples), including Taputapuatea. Considered the most important temple in the Society Islands, it is a national monument. In Uturoa, the main port, the colorful market is most crowded on Wednesday and Friday mornings when the Tahaa people arrive by motorized canoe to sell their products. Behind Uturoa, you can climb Tapioi Hill, one of the easiest and best climbs in Tahiti-Polynesia, and get a great view of four islands. Near the village of Pufau, Mount Temehani is the highest point on the island and the only home in the world of the Tiare Apetahi flower.

The largest of the Leeward Islands, Raiatea is totally surrounded by a reef but has several navigable passes and the only navigable river in French Polynesia. Raiatea shares a protected lagoon with the island of Taha’a; legends tell how the two islands were cut apart by a mythical eel. Although it has no beaches, there are picture-postcard motus (flat reef islets) with nice beaches in the lagoon. One of the nicest things about Raiatea is that it remains “undiscovered” by most visitors to French Polynesia. Before European encroachment, Raiatea was the religious, cultural and political center of Tahiti-Polynesia. It was also Captain Cook’s favorite island. The last resistance to the French takeover on the island lasted until 1897, when French troops and warships used arms to conquer the island. The native leader of the resistance, Teraupoo, was deported to New Caledonia. Raiatea is an archaeologist’s delight. Scientists have unearthed artifacts linking the island with Hawaii. Local tradition says Raiatea was the great jumping-off point for ancient Polynesian mariners. There are a significant number of marae (Tahitian temples), including Taputapuatea. Considered the most important temple in the Society Islands, it is a national monument. In Uturoa, the main port, the colorful market is most crowded on Wednesday and Friday mornings when the Tahaa people arrive by motorized canoe to sell their products. Behind Uturoa, you can climb Tapioi Hill, one of the easiest and best climbs in Tahiti-Polynesia, and get a great view of four islands. Near the village of Pufau, Mount Temehani is the highest point on the island and the only home in the world of the Tiare Apetahi flower.

Fakarava is oblong shaped and has an almost continuous string of reef and motu stretching for 40 km (25 mi) on its eastern edge. It’s the second largest of the Tuamotu atolls, located 450 km (280 mi) northeast of Tahiti, and 120 km (75 mi) southeast of Rangiroa. It’s renowned for the drift diving in its two passes—Garuae (also spelled Ngarue) in the north near the main town of Rotoava (and the airport) and Tamakohua Pass, 48 km (30 mi) across the lagoon in the south.

The tiny village of Tetamanu, situated by the southern pass, was once the capital of the Tuamotus and houses the first church built in the archipelago in 1874. In 2006 the entire atoll was deemed an UNESCO biosphere reserve; to preserve the lagoon no overwater bungalows have been built in it. Fakarava was “discovered” by Russian explorer Fabian Gottlieb Von Bellingshausen in 1820; some 20 years later missionaries arrived, in the guise of fanatical Catholic priest Honore Laval, and began building churches.

Think of French Polynesia and you are automatically transported to the white sands of Tahiti, the blue seas of Bora Bora or, at the very least, the iconic statues of Easter Island. Now, imagine a place that is home to that majestic trinity, but has no crowds and is full of island authenticity that is rare in these global times. You have just imagined Nuku Hiva. The island is the second largest after Tahiti in the archipelago, but is yet to be discovered by tourism.

Fatu Hiva is the southernmost and most remote island in the Marquesas Group. First seen by Europeans in 1595 when Mendaña went to colonize the Solomon Islands, the island again gained some fame through the visit of Thor Heyerdahl in the mid-1930s. Steep cliffs, sharp mountain peaks and many narrow valleys form an impressive obstacle when exploring this volcanic island. The two villages of Omoa and Hana Vave have combined some 650 inhabitants and are both located on the more protected western side of the island.

They are connected by a 17 kilometer long road that climbs up to the central plateau. Omoa has a protected little harbor for local boats, but Hana Vave has the Bay of Virgins, one of the most photographed bays in the Marquesas Islands, if not French Polynesia. Islanders are known for their tapa (bark cloth) paintings and wood carvings –which are highly sought after in Tahiti.

The largest of the southern islands, Hiva Oa, the master pillar or finial post of the ‘Great House’ – which represents the Marquesan archipelago in the local mythology – has always been the rival of Nuku Hiva. The island is shaped like a seahorse and has a mountain range running southwest to northeast whose main peaks, Mt. Temetiu and Mt. Feani form a real wall around Atuona. Atuona, a peaceful little port at the head of the Taaoa Bay, also known as Traitors Bay, has emerged from obscurity due to having had the privilege of being the last resting place of Paul Gauguin and of the singer Jacques Brel. The tombs of these famous personalities are on the side of the Calvary cemetery looking out across the bay and are places of great pilgrimage. In the village, the Gauguin Museum displays items related to the painter’s stay there at the beginning of the century and has copies of his works.

Rangiroa, meaning ‘Vast Sky’ in Puamotu, is the largest atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago and one of the largest in the world. Surrounded by two legendary bodies of water, Moana-tea (Peaceful Ocean) and Moana-uri (Wild Ocean), the atoll consists of about 250 islets and sandbars, with approximately 100 narrow passages in the fringing reef. The lagoon covers 618 square miles (1,600 square km), large enough that it has its own horizon.

Tahiti’s heart-shaped sister island Moorea is located only nine miles across the Sea of the Moon from Tahiti. While Bora Bora and Tahiti are the destinations most prominently advertised, it is Moorea, the Magical Island that is the best-kept secret of the trio of famous French Polynesian islands. In fact, Moorea has often been likened to James Michener’s mythological island of Bali Hai – and it is easy to see why. Picture perfect lagoons and gleaming white beaches are surrounded by jagged mountains and volcanic spires. Its six mountains include Mount Rotui. From its summit there are spectacular views of Opunohu Bay and the island. Captain Samuel Wallis was the European discoverer of the Windward Island in 1767. After leaving Tahiti, he passed along the north coast of Moorea without landing. The first European visitors to the island include botanist Joseph Banks and some sailors sent ashore by Captain Cook in 1769. Captain Cook himself anchored in Opunohu Bay for one week in 1777, but never visited the bay that now bears his name.

Formed by two ancient volcanoes and joined at the isthmus of Taravao, Tahiti is the largest island of the Society Archipelago and the economic heart of French Polynesia. Ever since the famous French impressionist painter Paul Gauguin immortalized Tahitian maidens in vibrant colors on his canvasses, Tahiti has had a mysterious allure and still summons up all the romance of the South Pacific as a tropical paradise. Rising in the center, Mount Orohena and Mount Aorai are the highest points; deep valleys radiate in all directions from these central peaks. Steep slopes drop abruptly from the high plateaus to coastal plains. The northeast coast is rugged and rocky without a barrier reef, and thus exposed to intense, pounding surf. Villages lie on a narrow strip between mountains and ocean. The south coast is broad and gentle with large gardens and coconut groves; a barrier reef shields it from the sea.